Events
  • Sitting in Sound

    Jul 15| Special Event
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    Jesse Fleming, A Theory of Everything, 2015, Installation view.
     
  • Opening Reception

    Jul 15| Special Event
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    L: Nora Slade, Kate Mouse Mickey Moss, 2014, Photo transfer and fabric paint on sweatshirt, cardboard and found objects. R: Marisa Takal, I Love My Sister, 2016, Oil on canvas, 65 x 50 inches.

    Opening Reception for the two-person exhibition of work by the Los Angeles-based artists Nora Slade and Marisa Takal

    Light snacks and refreshments.

    Exhibition on view July 15 - August 19, 2017.

    Bolsky Gallery located across from Ben Maltz Gallery, ground floor, Galef Center for Fine Arts.

  • Amelia Gray is the author of the short story collections AM/PM, Museum of the Weird, and Gutshot, as well as the novels Threats and, most recently, Isadora, published by Farrar, Straus and Giroux. Her fiction and essays have appeared in The New Yorker, the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, Tin House, and VICE. She is winner of the New York Public Library Young Lions Award, of FC2's Ronald Sukenick Innovative Fiction Prize, and a finalist for the PEN/Faulkner Award. 

  • Image: BijaRi, On the rooftops of Santa Domingo-Savio neighborhood as part of the project Contando con Nosotros, 2011

  • Luis J. Rodriguez was Los Angeles Poet Laureate from 2014-2016. The twenty-fifth edition of his first book, Poems Across the Pavement, won a 2015 Paterson Award for Sustained Literary Achievement. He has written fourteen other books of poetry, children’s literature, fiction, and nonfiction, including the best-selling memoir Always Running: La Vida Loca: Gang Days in L.A. Rodriguez is also founding editor of Tia Chucha Press and co-founder of Tia Chucha’s Centro Cultural & Bookstore in the San Fernando Valley. In 2016 Tia Chucha Press produced the largest anthology of L.A.-area poets, Coiled Serpent: Poets Arising from the Cultural Quakes & Shifts of Los Angeles. Rodriguez’s last memoir It Calls You Back: An Odyssey Through Love, Addiction, Revolutions, and Healing was a finalist for the 2012 National Book Critics Circle Award. His latest poetry collection Borrowed Bones appeared in 2016 from Curbstone Books/Northwestern University Press.

  • Raised in Philadelphia, with roots in South Africa and Trinidad, Zinzi Clemmons’ writing has appeared in Zoetrope: All-Story, Transition, The Paris Review Daily, and elsewhere. She has received fellowships and support from the MacDowell Colony, Bread Loaf, the Fine Arts Work Center in Provincetown, and the Kimbilio Center for African American Fiction. She is co-founder and former Publisher of Apogee Journal, and a Contributing Editor to LitHub. She teaches literature and creative writing at the Colburn Conservatory and Occidental College. Her debut novel, What We Lose, as well as a second title, are forthcoming from Viking.

  • Louise Sandhaus is a graphic designer and graphic design educator. She was previously Director of the Graphic Design Program at CalArts where she currently is faculty. Her recent book on California graphic design, Earthquakes, Mudslides, Fires and Riots: California and Graphic Design 1936-1986, co-published by Metropolis Books and Thames & Hudson, has received laudatory reviews from The New York Times, The Guardian, Eye, and Creative Review. The book received the Palm d’Argent for best art book at FILAF (International Festival of Art Books and Films on Art).

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Kathryn Hagen: 2006-07 Faculty Development Grant Report


Report: Asia Trip

Thanks to a generous faculty grant, I had the opportunity to travel to Thailand and Vietnam in the fall of 2006. There were multiple purposes underlying the trip, but the two that related directly to my work in fashion were:

  1. The opportunity to study the relationship between ethnic and western clothing in a very different region of the world for a potential future book project relating to fashion and culture.
  2. To do research for the Fall Bob Mackie eveningwear project, the direction being "Asian Princesses."
Thailand

My research for both projects began on the Thai Airlines flight to Bangkok. The female flight attendants wore colorful silk ankle-length skirts and fitted tops, [Thai Chakri] with filigree combs in their shiny black hair. The male attendants conversely wore Western-style dark tailored jackets and silk ties with generic trousers. This was the first indication that the effects of western culture might differ in terms of gender, which proved consistently true in both countries. In the use of national costumes at hotels and other commercial venues, Thai and Vietnamese women are the cultural mannequins for the tourists.

I also had the good fortune on my flight to sit next to a young Thai woman returning to Bangkok. We chatted, and I was able to inquire about the function of traditional costume in her urban environment. She replied that older people still exhibited some native influence in their dress, but the younger generation’s wardrobe was almost completely westernized.

Surprisingly, this included even wedding ceremonies, [Ill. 1] as I had been to several Chinese weddings in the states featuring an appearance in traditional red costume by the bride. I asked if any of her clothing came from the West, and she told me that large manufacturing companies in Thailand produced western-style clothing and her wardrobe was almost completely of Thai origin.

Her observations proved accurate. I saw a number of older women in Bangkok whose dress reflected the Thai aesthetic. [Ill. 2, 3]

There was little or no Asian influence in the dress of either older or younger men, or in younger women and children. [Ill. 4-8] This continued in the smaller, northern city of Chang-Mai, though the strong presence of saffron-robed monks added an exotic element to the picture.
Bangkok is an enormous city filled with modern buildings and skyscrapers. Across the street from our hotel (a five-star Holiday Inn) were a Starbucks and also a McDonalds, with few items that we recognized from the American menu. Nevertheless, the city, like the resident’s clothing, seemed, at first impression, rather generic. Fortunately, we found an entrance to almost hidden canals used primarily by natives, which served as a conduit to what seemed a more authentic Bangkok “interlining”. A rather funky speedboat traversed the canals, leading to the French Quarter where most of the temples and older buildings are located. The busy waterways were lined with the crowded apartments of the working class Thai people, and the wooden balconies often served as closets for their colorful, albeit western-looking clothing, as well as a place to hang laundry. [Ill. 9] It was a strange juxtaposition of a visually exotic scene peopled with families dressed very much like us.

In visiting the vast and impressive temples of the old city, we saw many statues and paintings of ancient Tibetan people in costume. The filigree and “pointy” shoulder silhouettes seemed to relate directly to the architectural style that is ubiquitous in the temples and older buildings of the two cities we visited. I am unaware of any other people where the ancient cultural aesthetic was so consistent between architecture and dress. The western influence has effectively erased this relationship, and again there was, for me, a visual disconnect as a result.

In the book “Dress, Gender and Cultural Change”, author Annette Lynch talks about the use by the Hmong (an ethnic group with Chinese and Laotian origins, many of whom immigrated to America after the Vietnam war, passing primarily through Thai refugee camps) of ritual ethnic costume to maintain and differentiate their culture in a foreign environment. In a country overrun with tourists like Thailand, there seemed to be little impetus for cultural differentiation through dress. On the contrary, emulating their foreign visitors seemed more the trend. On the other hand, the Asian aesthetic has exerted a strong influence periodically on Western fashion, and I can reasonably speculate that there may be more Eastern influence in my closet than in that of younger Thai females.

In 2007, Miss Thailand, Fahroong Yutitham, the country’s entry for Miss Universe, caused a furor by wearing a Hmong costume, reflecting her own origins, instead of the classic Thai national dress. [See Page 4] Because I have yet to find a use of the Thai costume for anything but business/tourist purposes, except by the oldest residents, I find it somewhat surprising that it should have been such an emotional issue. My cynical side suspects that this emotionalism is somehow tied to either tourist economics or an ethnic class system.
Certainly other regional countries like Japan have seen sweeping changes in their dress due to Western influence, but, to their credit, the youth have embraced many of the more extreme trends, like Goth and Punk, and made them their own. Because they have developed such a personal and radical fashion scene, young Japanese are featured in a popular magazine called “Fruits” and have become global trendsetters.

Kathryn Hagen: Illustrations 1-8 (Thailand)

Illustrations 1-8 (Thailand)

Kathryn Hagen: Illustrations 9-14 (Thailand)

Illustrations 9-14 (Thailand)

Kathryn Hagen: Illustrations 14-21 (Vietnam)

Illustrations 14-21 (Vietnam)

Kathryn Hagen: Article on Thailand

Article on Thailand

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